Arrived safely in Denver to start our three week road trip. Incredibly smooth flight lasting 9 hours and 20 minutes and easy transfer to pick up our 4X4 hire car. Staying at the Oxford Hotel in downtown Denver; a beautifully restored Victorian boutique hotel already decorated for Christmas. Local time is 7.30pm – UK time: 2.30am so absolutely shattered! Time for bed me thinks!
Archive for the Category » Travel «
Arrived in Denver
Travel issues
It always helps to bear in mind the very basics of planning a trip in advance of departure. In some ways I feel happy that I have done this. A decision has been made that we will do a 3 week road trip of the US. I have checked out motels and lodges, perused local restaurant menus, checked out the latest Vegas thrill rides and decided which books to take with me. What I did fail to do however was check that my passport was still valid. It’s not. It expires tomorrow. And we leave in circa 2 weeks. When I opened the back page to take a peep I did a comedy double take – surely that should be November 2010 expiry – not November 2009? A printing error? Trick of the light? Someone had changed the date without telling me? But no – the full horror was there to see. So, now I have an appointment at the Passport Office in London at 12.45 to ‘walk through’ a same day passport renewal application. Not good news. Especially not in terms of cost. But there’s worse to come – the rules for passport photos have changed to become much more stringent resulting in the shocking image I produced in the photo booth in Millbrook Tesco’s this morning:
In the meantime, I’ve been scribbling away with the feeling that there is light at the end of the tunnel – almost finished the first draft! I have got it into my head that it needs to be 100 000 words which, with editing next year, will be trimmed down to circa 80 000. I’ve adopted a new approach in that I am writing a few extra chapters in isolation which fit with the book but need to be linked in properly – a job for 2010. In reality I have just 3 weeks left as we will be away for 3 weeks on our trip and the last week of December is taken up with Christmas. I have to get that pen burning!!! And I have to say the pressure of a tough deadline really helps. I HAVE to finish it by 31st December 2009!
And thinking back on this year Ive discovered that it has been the voluntary work which has left the most lasting impact and really touched my heart. I am determined to carry on with visiting once I am back at work – it’s just not the sort of thing you can turn your back on. I’ve met and got to know some wonderful people who, maybe without realising it, have taught me a lot. They have really enriched my life. A big thank you to them all.
Winchester Writers Conference
Sometimes the mere sight of a pseudonym printed in cheap blue marker on a sheet of A4 paper can set your heart a-racing. Yet just half an hour earlier, with a slightly deflated feeling and an old copy of Heat magazine, I found myself walking through Winchester University campus to attend the Winchester Writers Conference. Frankly I was down in the dumps. After a fantastic five days at the week-long workshop in Shawford I felt as though I could no longer absorb any more advice on writing. I was jaded – a mere amateur floundering in a sea of creative professionals, well-seasoned hacks and a few cynics thrown in. But a quick glance at the competition short-list board confirmed that ‘Margaux’ aka Mrs. P had been shortlisted for the Echo Feature Article competition! I am over the moon! Pleased as punch! And all those other cliches so despised by my tutor. So I shall unashamedly post my submission below and feel just a little bit pleased with myself for just a little while longer. Thank you for your patience!
A Taste of Tehran
Vali-e-Asr Avenue in Tehran at six o’clock in the evening: gleaming yellow cabs jostle for position, horns blare wildly, young mothers berate trailing toddlers, teenagers eat chips from polystyrene trays and the after-hours office crowd queue for cinema tickets.
I wear my new black manteau; a little like a coat dress, a lot like a rain coat, the manteau ensures women comply with the Islamic Republic of Iran’s dress code. But despite the rules, Iranian girls still look good with their brightly coloured headscarves and figure-hugging manteaus daringly cinched in at the waist.
Stopping at a pastry shop, I gaze at the pastel-coloured cakes and sweets. It’s warm inside and the air is rich with almond and vanilla. I order Turkish Delight; luscious cubes of delicate pink, lightly freckled with crushed pistachios. It’s delicious.
A group of teenage girls bundle into the shop and gather around me. All carry mobiles clasped between perfectly manicured fingers. A girl in a Burberry headscarf takes a photograph of me. They want to chat and their English is good.
“Where are you from please?”
“I live in England.”
Shrieks and calls of excitement.
“Welcome! Welcome to Iran!”
This isn’t what I expected. I relax and open up the conversation.
“What is your name?”
Then they come – exotic sounding names I can never hope to pronounce. A girl in a fur-trimmed coat carrying a fashionable buckled handbag pushes her way to the front of the group.
“Excuse me madam – headscarf – good? Bad?”
I play the diplomat.
“Headscarf good. Do you like the headscarf?”
Half shake their heads vehemently; others nod demurely. Personally I’m struggling with my scarf which reveals just a flash of spiky fringe. Everyday is a bad hair day for me in Iran. The conversation moves on and shifts up a gear.
“Madam – do you know the Koran?”
This is unexpected.
“No. I don’t know the Koran.”
Some giggle, some feign outrage, others are genuinely surprised.
“Madam – what do English think of Iran? English do not like Iran?”
The girls wait in anticipation. I take a chance.
“English think Iran dangerous country. Iran not safe. English think Iranian people dangerous.” I hope they understand that I am merely expressing a media-fuelled perception.
Their laughter is instantaneous and uproarious.
“Iran very safe country!”
“Iran not dangerous!”
“Iranian people not dangerous!”
It’s my turn and I have to ask the obvious.
“What do Iranians think of England?”
They respond instantly and together.
“England not safe country!”
“English do not like Iranian people!”
“English think Iranian people are terrorists!”
We look at each other and laugh. Parting company we embrace and brush cheeks. We have all learnt something this warm autumn evening in Tehran.
Writing update
Well, we listened to the interview I did with Rob Richardson on Express FM on Tuesday night. Well, I kind of listened but I have to be honest and admit that it took two vodka and oranges for me to even get close to the radio. Ian set everything up to make a pod cast but I understand there have been some technical difficulties. Mrs Q was particularly supportive – texting me every five minutes with exquisite comments like: ‘You go Running? My a**e’, and ‘Lovely sweetness – listen to you.’ Well Mrs Q – when did you last shift your a**e, move away from the kettle chips and raise your heart rate by one beat? I have taken the liberty of posting a photo of myself and Mrs Q who is wearing something tall and pink on her head reminiscent of Black Adder ( or just plain odd ).
So in addition to the radio episode I’ve re-written a story rejected by one magazine and re-submitted to a different periodical. I’ve also written two more pieces – one of which I have sent off and the other I’m saving for the next Write-Invite session at Rosies Wine Bar. The story for Rosies is called The Feeder and is about Fat Admirers and the emotional and physical control they have over their partners. It’s a bit dark but ends on an unexpected upbeat note which I hope stops it being too depressing. You see I’ve decided that the time has come to try and lighten up some of my writing as at the moment it is rather ‘from the dark side’ of life.
In terms of non-writing activity there have been various local outings which Ive really enjoyed. Loved shopping with Natalie ( my God Daughter ) and Mel for Nat’s prom dress on Tuesday. She looked beautiful in every dress she tried on although unfortuntely she couldnt find exactly the right dress that day. Subsequently she has chosen a pink floaty number which looks wonderful on her.
We also said good luck and bye bye to Duncan on Friday night as he left for a new job. We finished the evening in an Indian at around 10pm. It was excellent value for money actually as I was still seeing the curry well into the next day. I shall not name and shame said Curry House needless to say it wasn’t our usual haunt – the wonderful Jewel in the Crown.
And the week wouldn’t have been complete without a trip to the new Southampton IKEA where you can go in expecting to spend very little and leave having picked up a motley collection of tea lights, candle holders and bed throws. I achieved all of the aforementioned.
Largin’ it up!
Sometimes you watch a film and you think ‘no – I shouldn’t be watching this’ or ‘ pl-lease I’m an adult – this shouldn’t be making me laugh like a constipated donkey.’ But – just two minutes into ‘Kevin and Perry Go Large’ and I was braying in the manner of the aforementioned mule. It was juvenile. It was school boy humour. It was bloomin hilarious. Mel and I enjoyed a good hour and a half as we took our sense of humour back to 1982 and enjoyed the antics of K and P. It may not be BAFTA award stuff – it may not even be BBC material – but it made us laugh like two teenage girls round the back of the bike sheds having a crafty fag and a cackle. Sometimes you just want to be entertained and sod the academia.
Justice at last or a roulade too far…
Sometimes you feel ‘yes – this feels right’ or ‘what goes around comes around’ or just plain ‘ha ha ha ha’. And this happened today. Helen ( aka Mrs Q of Company Y ) had proactively informed me yesterday that she would be making one of her roulades to take to Mum and Dad’s for our family lunch. ‘Good’ I thought, ‘that’s nice’ and ‘bully for you lovee’. However all was not as she planned and I was delighted to walk into the kitchen and discover that things weren’t going well roulade-wise. Yes dear reader it had collapsed and produced an enormous shapeless mound of what looked like dinosaur do-dahs. Mrs Q was not happy yet bravely struggled to keep up appearances by ’serving’ the aforementioned desert. Now those of you who know Mrs Q well will know she is also known as Queen of Puddings – a title earned following years of back-to-back perfect pudding production. Not so to-day though…Today was something else…please enjoy the photos below which I feel clearly show the disappointment and shame felt by Q.o.P. and the shock on Dad’s face at being served a sub-standard pudding.
Julia
Took this photo when I was in London on Monday. It’s a new film and I obviously liked the title but I was particularly taken by the caption printed underneath the name ‘Julia’ as I feel it somes up my life at the moment: ‘A woman on the edge takes a journey into the unknown.’ Except this woman is an alcoholic while I stick to Jack Daniels miniatures – a totally different league.
So whats occurrin’ ?
Been a few days since I’ve updated my good friend – the blog. That’s not to say it hasn’t been a busy time. The writing is going well and I’m loving being able to have whole days to devote to exploring what’s inside my ( sometimes ) very strange head. Day starts with an uber-large caffettiere of very strong and potentially lethal coffee. This certainly gets my mind a-racing. I’ve found that some days I’ve even forgotten to get lunch which for a compulsive eater is quite extraordinary. I make up for it afterwards though with cake. Lots of it. And I’ve sent off some more work so fingers crossed – who knows…
And on a different subject, we went to see the film Frost/Nixon last night at Harbour Lights in Southampton which was brilliant. I do remember Watergate very vaguely as a child although clearly I had no understanding or appreciation of the issues ( this was a child who called Nixon ‘Pregnant Nixon’ – clearly confusing the words President and Pregnant in a totally inappropriate manner ). I also remember bill-board posters depicting a photo of Nixon’s face and then the caption: ‘Would you buy a used car from this man?’ I was highly politically sensitive as a young child. Anyway the film is great and not to be missed. I followed it up by watching some of the original footage of the infamous David Frost/President Nixon interviews on You Tube; they are uncannily alike. So – one to be recommended.
And on a lighter note, I had my first dining experience at a branch of Nandos this afternoon. Think chicken, then think more chicken and then round it off with a little more poulet and you’re there. Yes – it’s a foul-fest but suprisingly tasty. Ian explained that I was in fact eating my bird portions incorrectly. I was using a knife and fork ( in the accepted civilised manner ) to pull small, mouth-sized pieces of meat away from the aforementioned carcass and then chewing slowly. Seemingly you gut the whole thing down in sub-fifteen minutes using hands if necessary. Now who moved my napkin…
Signing out from Amman
Well, its our last night in Jordan and what a wonderful time we have had. Following my last post we took a journey out to Wadi Rum – an amazing desert area – rolling sand dunes punctuated by huge rocky outcrops. We saw Lawrence of Arabia’s 7 pillars of wisdom which was huge. We then took open backed 4 x 4 trucks for a desert safari. One of the best stops was at the rock bridge which we climbed to have an amazing view. Actually – some of us wimped out first time round and had to be coaxed up – a very big thank you to David who kindly got me up without too many tears and tantrums – it was great to get there and to do something I was really scared of doing. But it was worth it and as they say nothing ventured nothing gained….more of this later…
That night we ate a lovely camp meal of chicken and rice with vegetables round the camp fire and slept out under the stars – we saw 2 amazing shooting stars, one of which left a silvery trail in the sky. It was absolutely boiling though and impossible to sleep.
The next morning we took camels to return to the bedouin village – a one and half hour trek across the dunes. My camel was called Sindy and Ian’s, Bob. They are such beautiful, stately creatures. We then drove on to Aqaba – a beach resort where I was able to snorkel across the reeef and where Ian did 2 scuba dives. More adventures!!
Today was our last day – a morning drive to Amman and then the afternoon free to explore. We visited the Citadel and the Archeological museum which holds the Dead Scrolls. After this we took a walk through the old town where Ian was able to go in one of the Mosques ( no women allowed as it was not a Friday ). After this we explored the vegetable market and the gold souk followed by a trip to a small stall which sold a local delicacy of goats cheese covered in nuts and then smothered in hot syrup – delicious ! A final stop for mint tea and then back to the hotel.
So now its last minute packing before we leave at 9am tomorrow morning for the airport. Its been a fantastic, action packed trip and one to be highly recommended. Thank you Exodus for a wonderful holiday but most of all to our lovely travelling companions who have been absolutely great – one of the best groups we have ever travelled with. So – see you folks back home soon with 4 memory cards of pictures – lucky you !


Greetings from Petra
Well, its up there with Niagra Falls, Ankhor Watt, Everest Base Camp and all the other amazing sites we have been lucky enough to see. Our first day saw us walking through the Siq, a narrow canyon with walls circa 50 feet high. It winds and turns through a narrow way, its sides carved with 2000 year old carvings. Eventually you emerge into a wider gap through which you get your first view of the Treasury ( think Indiana Jones here ) – an absolutely incredible site ( google Petra ) and you will see. The Treasury is carved out of the red rock and was used as a sacred tomb. After much photo taking, we started our walk through to see the rest of the site. It is absolutely huge.
The site is carved out of the rock with tombs, temples and alters all within the rock face – the ruin of a 2000 year old city. The heat was relentless – 35 degrees – and so dry. It is a rocky, sandy site full of beduins walking through with their camels and horses. We took a very steep and hard walk up one of the canyon faces to see The Monestry – another intact building carved from the rock. A very hard climb taking around 45 minutes but well worth it to discover this amazing place. After climbing down we made our way slowly back through the site and to the Treasury which was deserted by this time – we had the place to ourselves!
We spent our second day at the site today climbing to the high places – the sacrifice sites. This was the hardest climbing we have ever done in the 40 degress heat. But what a day. Our guide took us up a ‘non tourist’ route clambering through crevices and across scree – up into the canyon to the top to get a wonderful view backdown into the Treasury. We then climbed higher, walking ledges with sheer drops on one site ( eeek!) until we reached the very top of the site – then back round the canyon and down the other side passing rarely if ever visited tombs cut into the rock. 10 miles hiking – absolutely shattered at the end but a fantastic day.
This evening we went back to the site to see it lit by candles and hear the beduin music. Of course I have bought a local beduin music CD and look forward to playing to you all when we return… Off to the desert tomorrow, to Wadi Rum for our day in the wilds – sleeping under the stars tomorrow night. Hope to blog again at Aqaba on Friday. Love to all. Over and out.























